Return to Fort Myers

 Sunday, February 14, 2021. Day 68. Valentine’s Day.

When we got up in the morning it was overcast. Before long, the fog rolled in and we could see nothing. After a reasonably short time, the sun burned off the fog and it was actually clear and beautiful, but still really windy. So it is on the water: we are pretty much dominated by the weather.

We had hoped to try the SUP‘s today but the wind made that impossible.

Roland made me a wonderful Valentine’s Day breakfast: Nutella crêpes; delish! with sliced bananas (our nod to healthy eating). We were rather disappointed that, again, neither dinghy practice nor stand up paddle boards were possible.

Around 11:50am, we pulled up the anchor after four nights at “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge in Pine Island Sound, making our way back to Legacy Harbour Marina, slip C 6, in Fort Myers.

As was the case with every other time that we passed this way, it was enormously crowded. It was a Sunday, it was a beautiful day, and Monday was Presidents’ Day, so this was a long weekend. We passed every type of boat imaginable from the smallest to the largest fortunately, they all observed the “slow“ area requirement (it is a manatee zone”). 

I steered for a while. It was very windy as we approached the marina: the wind was 27 knots. Although we had been in and out of the marina once before, and were therefore, somewhat familiar with the zig and zag to get to C 6, the wind was really heavy and Captain Roland made his turn into the slip too tight for the first two tries. Fortunately, he was able to back out and the third time, his docking was perfect.

After our initial docking, we had to readjust all the fenders on both sides and retie the lines in a way that would enable me to embark and disembark on my own. It was not my favorite set up. MM was too long for this narrow slip. Sassy, the boat in the adjoining slip (we shared the finger dock), took up 90 % of the width at one point with their access ladder, and I had to hoist myself off the dock onto the boat and sort of jump off to disembark. Not really comfortable, but it is high season and the marinas are packed. After we retied the lines, I was able to get on and off.

We had been at anchor for four nights and five days and because of the strong wind, we hadn’t been able to get off the boat at all or practice getting the dinghy down or try the SUPs. I was looking forward to stepping on land, going to an outdoor restaurant, going for a run, riding our bikes, and walking around town.

When we call the marinas and/or the bridges and/or locks on the radio, the dock masters and lock and bridge tenders always address the caller as “captain”. It is interesting to hear them only use the title; names (except for the boats' names), are not relevant, and there is a certain panache to hearing the respectful reference to the title. Throwback civility that is missing in our casual world today.

My job, when docking and de-docking, is to be at the stern to make sure that there is adequate room for the various turns and maneuvers, especially when and if the captain has to back up. We wear headphones so that we can speak to each other in a calm and clear manner, although the Captain is at the helm, and I am in the stern, many feet away. The headphones are commonly called “marriage savers” (the reason for this nickname should be patently obvious!)

I do believe that I could be more helpful with respect to directions; as an example, I knew that Captain Roland's first two turns were much too tight; if the Captain were open to my input, he would have waited to make this difficult turn, and docked perfectly the first try. I stand prepared to assist when we get comfortable enough to exchange more information over the “marriage savers”. We have docked only 14 times, and just our luck, usually in heavy wind! It is not easy and the Captain is getting better and better.

After we arrived at the dock, we proceeded to address all the tasks, in addition to adjusting the fenders and the lines, that have to be made: the motor is turned off, the electrical and water lines connected, the breakers changed from DC to AC, the engine temperature checked, fuel tanks and water tank and holding tank levels checked, opening and closing of the sea cocks, and the time and hours noted of the engine and generator, if it had been on, etc., etc., and etc.

It was Valentine’s Day so we got ourselves together; I even applied lipstick, put on jewelry and a nice pair of shoes. We walked into town and stopped at the Twisted Vine courtyard hoping to have our Valentine’s Day dinner. Of course, we did not have reservations. But it was only 4 o’clock and they agreed that if we could would leave by 5:30, we could have dinner. The courtyard was totally empty, and we had a lovely dinner. 

The food was good (not great), and a little overpriced. We had a nice rose (we shared three glasses), and we shared seabass and short ribs. The dessert was perfect for Valentine’s Day: key lime pie, which was a little small, and a flourless chocolate torte, which was quite generous, and perfectly delicious.

All in all, a very nice Valentines dinner, and we were out of there at exactly 5:30, as agreed. We had started the day with Nutella crêpes, and ended with a very rich, dark, flourless chocolate tort with a lovely rose wine and a walk. What more could we ask?

Monday, February 15, 2020 Presidents’ Day. Day 69.

The day was very windy, even in the marina. I ran 3 miles to and around Edison Ford Gardens and Estates. It was hot and humid; okay outside, but not comfortable in a closed boat. The AC was necessary; it seemed to be working well enough. Thankfully. It is good to solve a problem so we have capacity for the next challenge! I finished listening to Dreams of My Father by Barack Obama, and continue d listening to Becoming by Michelle Obama.

Our visit to Legacy Harbour Marina in Ft. Myers, was supposed to be just for a couple days but the forecast showed heavy winds for much longer. We talked to the marina about staying longer. Although it was not really what we wanted to do, it was the only prudent plan. I had plenty of paperwork to do, and bills to pay. We walked to the supermarket at least once a day, zoomed with friends and ate some very interesting dinners that Roland prepared. The highlight of the day was a call from Lee County; it is possible that we may be able to get our second shot through the county which would be a great relief.

Tuesday, February 16, 2021. Day 70 to Sunday, February 21, 2021 (02/21/2021).

The weather was not perfect, but certainly more tolerable than Texas, New England, Philadelphia, and New Jersey; we had no snow, it was overcast and windy, but the temperatures were mostly mild. The next few days in the marina were spent doing “housework” and “paperwork” and working on Wil and MAG (Mid Atlantic Angel Fund).

We took a walk each day or rode our bikes (taking the bikes off the boat and assembling them was a challenge). I attended a Wil zoom program on Khmer Villages, which reminded me of our visit to Cambodia in October 2019, which we loved.

One evening we went to dinner at 10 Twenty, in a courtyard around happy hour. Most of the customers went to the rooftop deck and we sat alone (thankfully), in the courtyard and had a great dark beer; I had a bison burger, and Roland had smoked brisket flat bread; very good. On the menu were two “Philly” variety sandwiches (we did not order them, but I was mildly curious).

We went to the supermarket frequently, and Roland was having fun with the air fryer and the Instapot. He made egg bites in the Instapot and fried chicken in the air fryer. Both worth repeating.

I got my first opportunity to buy Girl Scout cookies; always an important pleasure of mine. My personal rule is that whenever I see girl scout cookies for sale, I buy at least one box, and engage the girls is conversation. It has been important to me for decades. I bought one box of thin mints and one box of Tagalongs....my favorite!

Again, in the Florida tradition, we rode our bikes mostly on the sidewalk, which really goes against my grain. But apparently it is the tradition here, especially because very few people walk in Florida. Whenever possible I worked out, ran, stretched, and did yoga. I was eating and drinking way too much to ignore serious exercise.

At the suggestion of my next door neighbor boater, Janice, I went to the next dock to meet Susanne, a real character. Susanne and her husband John, live aboard their boat for five months in the marina. They are from Ocean City, New Jersey, about 5 miles from our house in Ventnor. We had a fun discussion, and exchanged boat cards (that's what boaters do). I hope Roland puts a picture of our boat card in the blog. She and John have sailed the world she told me. Maybe we will get together this summer in NJ, after we all have been vaccinated.

Most of the time, there were thousands of these little teeny bugs all over the boat. Our neighbors said that they’ve been in this marina for five years and they’ve never seen it this bad. It was bad. I blamed these bugs for my itching problem, but nobody else seemed to be bitten by them.

On one of our walks, we stopped and had lobster rolls at Masons; really good, almost Maine quality! On one of our bike rides we stopped at Kings Table which turned out to be a Cuban restaurant, and it had a Philly version of a Cuban sandwich. Old home week! We didn't order it, but it was the second restaurant in Ft Myers to feature a Philly style sandwich.

Captains note: we did find some fantastic lobster rolls at a new restaurant in town.. Mason's Maine Lobster roll.. they where fantastic..

Another Kadey Krogan 44 (very new) stopped in the marina for a night (this marina is the marina with the closest supermarket), and we met Jelles, the owner. I immediately had door envy when I saw the entrance to the back deck; it was twice the depth of Magic Moments's door; so sensible, so easy to get on and off, so sad that KK didn't think of that back in 2007 when MM was under construction! Getting off and on the boat with doors like that would be 10 times easier than what we have. It was a kick to meet him in person; I had read a lot of his commentary each morning on the KK site where people share ideas. He’s a frequent contributor. It was almost like meeting a famous columnist.

Ft Myers has several murals and sculptures scattered around town, creating interest during our walks, even though, due to Covid, we weren't shopping or going into art galleries.

While in the marina, it became apparent that our refrigerator was not operating properly, (surprise: a problem!), so Roland defrosted both the refrigerator and the freezer. It took a while, it was a pain, but it seemed to have solved the issue. I am thrilled that the refrigerator/freezer, doesn’t have to be replaced. But we will have to defrost the freezer and refrigerator more frequently. We also have to be very attentive to closing the refrigerator door, which is a bit tricky, if we don't pay attention and take our time. It’s so great that we solved a problem without having to call our guru, Scott.

While in the marina, I watched some very large boats come in and out of the slips. The ones with stern thrusters as well as bow thrusters had a much easier time. I developed my fantasy list for MM: I would like a water maker, solar panels, gas stove, stern thrusters, drawer replacements, quiet heaters and A/Cs, and deep doors to enter and exit the decks. This is just a fantasy, MM is great, just the way she is.....But, if anyone wants my 2cents, those are really great things to have. There is an item that next week will jump to the top of the list.......hang in!

We are leaving the marina tomorrow, Monday, February 22. Winds: please be gentle, we HAVE to practice getting the the dinghy on and off the top deck, and find out if the repaired motor works!

By hook or by Crook aka crooked boat hook and crossing the Okeechobee

 Sunday, January 17, 2021. Day 42. Up early so that we can get through the Port Mayaca Lock and enter Lake Okeechobee early. The first opening is 7:30 AM. Probably won't get through the lock until closer to 8 AM.

However the first chore will be getting off the dolphin.

Not simple. Captain Roland decided we should start with the stern. It was a little awkward, but we were able to remove the stern line from the dolphin cleat. Roland then ran to the bow so that we could remove the bow line. Roland was going to remove the line and I was going to be at the helm. I needed to steer so that he could untie from the dolphin cleat. Very tricky; especially for me. Please bear in mind, neither of us have ever de-dophined!

We put on our headphones (known as marriage savers), so that we could hear each other. I was receiving a barrage of commands: Neutral! Reverse! Port thrust! Starboard thrust! Reverse! Slow! Steer!......very stressful and I was sure the boat was going to be damaged banging into the dolphin. Finally, after probably three minutes of staccato commands and nerve wracking manipulations, which felt like at least 30 minutes, Roland untied and we moved away. I was more than relieved. The boat had survived, reasonably unscathed......(I needed a drink).....He then displayed the mangled boat hook that had given its life to protect the boat as it, rather than the boat, had been smashed into the dolphin. We still use the crooked hook; I am too grateful to just toss it; a reminder of what I hope is my only dolphin experience!

So, off we went to enter the Mayaca Port Lock with less damage, but a little more stress, than I would like to start the day.

The lock was only a quarter of a mile away and it would take the boat only 2 feet up. As we approached the lock another KK trawler arrived to join us in the lock, Red Tail. I totally messed up the approach to the lock wall, again a port side request by the lock tender. I really did not know what I was doing; it was only my second lock and I was still freaked from trying to avoid a collision with the dolphin. Foolishly rather than mistakenly, thought we were too close to the wall. I was busy protecting Magic Moments from smashing against the wall. I could not reach the hanging lock ropes forcing the Captain to back up the boat and start again. He was rather embarrassed in front of Red Tail, but I assured him that they had watched me push away with the remaining intact boat hook, and mostly sympathized with his challenge of relying on such an inexperienced first mate.

We crossed Lake Okeechobee without incident without any incidents. Because the water level in the lake was unusually high, we were able to cross a section of it rather than have to go around the entire perimeter on the south.

While on Lake Okeechobee, we saw a lot of dark smoke and fires on the shore. We learned that they were burning the sugarcane fields. The ashes were all over our boat. I was totally unhappy; it was only yesterday that we had left Stuart with our shiny, newly waxed, beautiful looking boat (at a very high cleaning, waxing and buffing fee), only to have it full of black ashes. Even worse, washing down the boat could cause the ashes to stain the surface, The ashes were even in the boat lockers!

We exited Lake Okeechobee after going through the Moore Haven Lock. Captain Roland asked the lock tender (all this is on a radio), if we could be on the starboard side. This is important to us because MM has a walk around only on the starboard side. On the port side, one has to run through the living space to get from bow to stern. The lock tender said OK but the ropes on starboard are rather short; he left it up to the captain. The captain said starboard and we made it work. With short ropes, I am at the bow (which is higher), while Roland mans the stern.

All worked out fine and we were through the lock. The lock tender decided to replace some of the short, tattered ropes after we left; good idea!

A half mile later, we docked at Moore Haven, a small working class town, near a prison, the sugar cane fields and citrus orchards. It was Sunday and everything was closed. The closest open store and restaurant, were a taco shop and a convenience store which were 11 miles away. Due to a miscommunication, the dockmaster wasn't on site when we arrived. We called him again, and he was 20 minutes away. We circled in the water until he arrived.

The dock was very reasonably priced, only a dollar a foot with free electricity, and adjacent to the city dock which was also a dollar a foot but without free electricity (the city dock used to be free, but all towns need funds nowadays). The dockmaster said the water was potable but that he wouldn't drink it. Needless to say, we weren't going to drink it. After we had spent three days and a fortune cleaning the boat, taking a risk that the ashes from the sugarcane fires, together with brown water would stain the boat, sounded dumb! 

 The dockmaster suggested using a broom rather than water. Great! Roland had bought a broom before we left Maryland and we thought we would just take it home; we had no good place to store it and we would never need it. The broom saved our finish and the portable vac got the ashes out of the lockers. We would wash the boat at another marina.

After tying the boat to the dock we walked around town. It was overcast and quiet. We didn't see a single soul. Moore Haven, although a small town, is the county seat. We learned some interesting history about how Moore Haven enticed an adjacent area to join their county to increase their base, but after a few years, the adjacent area voted to return to its original county; they felt Moore Haven wasn't treating them fairly. Politics will never change!

The folks from Red Tail, with whom we had been texting since we left Port Mayaca Lock, and had followed us across Lake Okeechobee and through the Moore Haven Lock, had docked at the town dock. We had learned a little bit about each other from our texting during the trip, and then had a chance to meet after docking, socially distanced. Roland collected a lot of tips and information, as they had been this way before. Kevin and Caroline had even taken Red Tail through the Panama Canal; well, I was really impressed!

Monday, January 18, 2021 Day 43. MLK Day; lots to think about. We left the dock at Moore Haven at 8 AM; Red Tail had left at 7 AM. It was 18 miles until the next lock, Ortona.

 It was an 8 foot down and Roland had to be at the stern, because the ropes were really short and frayed, yet again.The lock tender directed us to the port, as there was a boat ahead of us on the starboard, (no mercy for us novices with no walkaround on port!). Roland hung on as the boat went down and the rope was really not long enough.

The scenery was quite pretty on the Caloosahatchee Canal. We passed sugarcane fields, citrus orchards and three bridges. My favorite was the center rotating bridge that the female (not that common) bridge tender had to walk out to the center to operate. She must walk out and back 30 times a day.

I spent a lot of the day trying to get a vaccine. No luck yet and I was getting rather frustrated but I had to keep checking frequently.

At 1:30 we docked at Franklin Lock and Dam National Park; a great bargain, only $30 and even less if you have a senior pass. I do have a senior pass to the national parks however I did not bring it with me. Live and learn.

Red Tail had arrived at Franklin before us and was on our dock to help us tie up. It was quite an amazing slip. We went in bow first and the whole front of the boat was covered with foliage. It looked as if we were grounded. After we docked, we sat on our back deck, which is our practice, and watched an alligator swimming nearby.

The park is small but rather lovely. There were many RVs in the park. We went for a walk and then met Kevin and Caroline, socially distanced, on a picnic bench. Caroline graciously brought some snacks and we each brought our own drinks.

No success trying to get a vaccine; did a session of yoga with Adrienne, and went to bed looking forward to my run in the morning before we left Franklin Lock and Dam National Park.

St. Georges Bermuda...

It,s a beautiful town on the northeast corner of Bermuda, also the port of entry where all sailboats must clear in with customs.

Will be here 11 days, due to needed repairs, fuel and bad weather coming thru. Looks like we can finally leave Monday 27 for our 1800 miles to Horta Azores. the anchorage is very full, with lots of international sailors waiting for a good weather window..

the best way to describe St. Georges is by photos- and you can, take a bad one here.

Onto Bermuda..

Finally getting around to the &Blog&, that I promised to keep.

After fueling up, we casted off our lines in Stuart Florida at 1:30 and motored north on the ICW to the inlet at Fort Pierce. Motored thru the inlet around 6:30 - rough 1/2 mile passage as we had strong winds against tide, with breaking waves sometimes slowing us down to 2 knots. Finally around 7:30 turned north, set sail and rode the gulf stream for 1 1/2 days, then turning east towards Bermuda -

Our first sunset motor sailing east.

We spent the next couple of days sailing east - doing a little north also, but tried to stay under 29 degrees latitude, advised to us by our weather router. Glad we did as we saw lots of lightning, squalls and thunder north of us.

Another sunset at sea.

5/11  sailed and motored hot and humid

5/12 changed course to 90, first squall hit us at 11:00 PM, got us all awake and  drilled to reef our sails

5/13 lighning to north sailed/motored. Someone left a post galley window opened and about 20 gallons of sea water poured around 6pm.

My sea berth 

5/14 - got hit by 3 squalls tonight - winds recorded up to 42Knots- reefed main only. All 3 of us on deck. Lasted a good 2 hours. We three ended up having a 24 hours day

5/14 -  3am ran out of fuel- bleed system in daylight. 6:30 fuel lines bleed motor running again, engined died again - 9:00, changed primary filter- lots of gunk from empty/ tank. Decided to keep better records of engine hours/fuel consumption.

12:40 water tanks dry ---turned on water maker to make sure we have fresh water.

5/15 2 am started engine  - motoring for all day so far, cloudy but cool with no storms .

5/16 - wind picking up able to do some nice sailing - 6.5 - 7 knots. Sighted Gibbs lighthouse on Bermuda around 11:00  pm.

5/17 - made landfall around 8 am in St. Georges Harbour, had toanchor out and await sace on the customs dock.

Another sea view...

 

Departing in 3 hours for our trans-Atlantic sail

We are finally set, boat full provisioned, lots of food, just need to top off with fuel and water.

Will be stopping in Bermuda, for additional fuel, as we are probably going to have to motor the first couple of days.

Then on to the Azores for, hopefully a nice 10-12 day stop before heading to Gibraltor.

the Happy crew, with Captain Merrie Bergmann ..

the very sweet 43 foot Passport sailboat "Allore:

I think we have enough ships store- this is the view of the forward, V-berth cabin- full. Food, clothing, towels and much more..

T

Next contact willbe from Bermuda..